More reasons why I still love to shoot film

If one takes a look at my camera gear one would realise that I am not one who is interested in keeping up with the latest photography equipment. For digital, while I have a Nikon D500, it’s always good to have a crop sensor body for the “add reach” when you need it, the vast majority of my digital work is done on one of, or both of my Nikon D3s camera bodies.

I am also not really inclined to buy new because there are so many great deals on the used market to be had. For my sports work I have a Nikon 200-400mm f4 and a 300mm f2.8, neither is the current model and both were purchased used and both were/are in excellent condition.

I say all of that to say that you don’t need to have the most current equipment to capture great shots, I would say I do pretty well in capturing images……..that brings me back to the topic of this post……Shooting Film.

Please take all of this simply as my personal view and my personal approach to photography, I would never make the comment, without the caveat, “for me”, that Film is better than Digital. I think they both have their pros and cons. Digital will provide you with very “clean” and “perfect” images where Film will always give you those “perfectly imperfect” images.

So, why do I still love to shoot film?

1) Film provides a tangible negative, that is, I can touch and feel it, where digital files are intangible and are stored on a computer of hard drive.

2) Film give the element of anticipation, I still get those feelings of excitement when I pull a roll of film out of the development tank to see what I captured, digital gives you this feedback immediately.

3) I take way fewer shoots on film than I do on digital.

4) Film gives a grainy imperfect image, digital images, outside of noise from using very high ISO, are almost hi-definition.

5) I love the act, or art of processing using those chemicals that emit that familiar and nostalgic smell.

So lets take each point and expand it a little:

1) I am sure we have all been there, I know I have, where we have captured images on a digital camera and neglected to back them up on a second (or third) hard drive and the drive we saved them on crashes and the images are lost forever, unless we wish to pay the high cost of going through data recovery. With film there is the hard copy of the negative that can be physically stored and pulled out 20, 30, or 50+ years later and still be used to make a print. I go through some of my photo albums that have images I captured on my Canon AE-1 back in university in the mid-1980s and the memories come flooding back. To look at the images I have captured on digital I have to open my laptop, attach the appropriate hard drive, find the file with the image I am looking for and then open said. This is because the vast majority of digital images are never printed, they are captured and then they take up space on a hard drive, or if you back up the files, they take up space on multiple hard drives.

Granted, in the film environment today we capture the image, develop the film and scan the images to a hard drive…….however, there is the tangible film, or negative.

2) Yes, with digital we get the instant feedback of what the image looks like on the back of the camera, FOR ME, I love film because there is not that instant feedback, I simply know that I captured the image as I saw it in my mind’s eye but I have to wait for the confirmation. To me that is one of the great things about shooting film, you have to completely trust your ability as a photographer to read the scene and to determine how you get the exposure you want in the scene. For example, I use the Zone System when shooting film so I first determine where I want my shadows to fall on the Zone, typically, I place my shadows in Zone 3 or 4, this gives me the deep shadows and I can retain a little more detail in the highlights.

3) Since I use the Zone System my image making tends to be longer when shooting film then when shooting digital. This and the fact that when shooting medium format film I only get 10 exposures per roll, I become much more meticulous in my shooting. I will typically only capture one frame of the scene unless I change perspective. With digital I find I am always looking for that absolute perfect image, both from an exposure and a compositional perspective so I will shoot multiple frames of the same image and select the best one after uploading the files. What I often find is that because I have multiple images of the same scene selection becomes an issue. With film because I have been so meticulous I tend to capture the images I want in one frame……..no selections to go through.

4) What I absolutely love about film is the lack of perfection in the image, the image will never appear to be as sharply focused as a digital image because the grain in film will not allow for the same level of sharpness. There is just something “raw” about an image captured on film that digital simply cannot give you. Sure there are editing presets that will allow you to process digital images to resemble film……..for me that defeats the purpose, why not just shoot film if you want the film look?

5) For me there is a feeling of the creation of art when shooting and developing film. After capture there is the process of removing the undeveloped film from the film cartridge or roll to the development spool and into the light-proof development tank. There is the mixing of the chemicals to match how you want to develop, there is the art of agitating during the development process, there are many different ways to agitate during the development process and each person uses the one way that gives them comfort. There is a theory that the faster you agitate the more grainy the images will be….I am not certain this theory has proven to be correct. The stop bath, very simply, stops the effects of the developer, that is, it stops the development process, from there we have the fixing process which make the development of the film permanent, in other words, after the fixing process is complete you can safely expose that roll of film, now a negative, to light without destroying it. The final stage is is the wash to removal all chemical residue from the roll of film/negative and then hang it up to dry.

So, in a nutshell, what I truly love about shooting and developing film is the hands on process from start to finish…….it is the creation or making of an image rather than “taking” an image.

Film is not for everyone but I think every photographer should at least give it a try even if it is just to see first hand how far the method of capturing and image has come.

I trust you have enjoyed this blog post, feel free to leave a comment.

Below are some images, similar in nature, show the difference in look between film and digital:

Captured on a Pentax 6x7 with Kodak TriX400 120Film

Captured on a Pentax 6x7 with Kodak TriX400 120Film

Captured on a Nikon D3s digital camera

Captured on a Nikon D3s digital camera

B&W Film vs Colour Film

I am thoroughly enjoying my return to shooting and developing film. I have to be honest though, while I do like the more muted colours I am getting from shooting Portra, colour film, my preference is B&W film because B&W offers no distraction., which is what colour can sometimes bring. Often times the colour in an image is more noticeable than the image itself.

“When you photograph people in color, you photograph their clothes. But when you photograph people in Black and white, you photograph their souls!”

Ted Grant

I agree with this.

Why do I love B&W

I love B&W principally because of what I said above, there is no colour to distract the eye. However, something that is right up there with that……..heavy contrast.

If you look at my B&W images, film or digital, you will see that my images are contrasty. With digital much if this comes in post processing because digital has less dynamic range than film. With film I get the contrast I want by using the Zone System:

https://www.alanrossphotography.com/ansel-adams-zone-system/

In short, the Zone System uses a scale from 0 to 10, where 0 is pure black and 10 is pure white. Zone 5 is middle gray or 18% gray.

I use an old Pentax Digital Spot meter, which when pointed at something within the scene, typically the darkest shadow detail, gives me an exposure reading number. I put that reading into Zone 5, which is 18% gray. As I don't want my shadows to be 18% gray, depending on the scene and what image I have in my mind, I will place the shadows in Zone 3. In doing this I can retain some details in the shadows.

“Expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights “

Granted the Zone System was really developed for sheet film but I have been happy with the results i get from rolled film, 35mm or 120.

I typically shoot at box speed and develop normally.

Truth be told, where I have pushed the film, that is shooting ISO 400 film at say ISO 800 or ISO 1600, I do get more contrast but I also get more film grain. I love grain but as I primarily shoot Kodak Tri-X 400 I tend to get sufficient grain shooting at box speed, with normal development in Rodinal developer.

So, the bottomline is I am thoroughly enjoy going back to my roots in film and for 2019 I have only used my digital cameras twice, both times for sporting events.

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Why I went back to shooting film

If you read my first blog post you will know that I started my time in photography nearly 40 years by shooting and developing B&W film.

Today I have gone full circle and have gone back to shooting and developing film.

Perhaps you are asking why I would want to go back to shooting film with the advancement of digital. It is not because I am some film snob thinking I am a better photographer than one who has never shot film. The answer is because I truly enjoy the process. When shooting film one must be deliberate in order to capture a good and usable image. This means that I am very deliberate in framing/composing of the shot, metering across the scene, with a focus on the shadows and where within the Zone, yes, I use the Zone System, I want the shadows. I set my exposure, check the composition again and only after all these steps do I press the shutter to capture the image.

NB// I am referring specifically to shooting B&W film. The process to shooting colour is a little different.

I tend to shoot only one image of a scene as my goal is to make every shot count. I am using a Pentax 6x7 Medium Format camera, which means I only get 10 images per roll of 120 film. My goal is also not to have to sort through a whole slew of images to pick the best one.

With digital we tend to shoot a large number of shots while out shooting, which means that every shot does not need to count. I too am guilty of this at times and then I end up with hundreds of images to sort through to determine the best one(s) of very similar images.

Film has simply caused me to really slow my process down and to truly see the image before I take it, if I look through the view finder and the image really does not enthuse me I will not take the shot, with digital I would likely take the shot an edit it later.

I will readily admit that shooting film is also nostalgic and I again get excited about pulling the developed negatives out of the development tank and hanging them to dry and having that anticipation of the quality of images I have captured.

The reality is that I am not using a full analogue process as Ii am scanning the negatives instead of printing is a dark room, I would image that to be true of most who have gone back to shooting film or have forayed into shooting film. So the process is really a hybrid between analogue and digital. Doing some dark room printing is, however, on my agenda.

The other thing I really like about film is that in order to capture a properly exposed imaged one must fully understand and be able to apply the Exposure Triangle. With film your ISO is preset by the film speed or the ISO you use to push or pull the film (will post about pushing and pulling film at a later date), therefore, the variables are Shutter Speed and Aperture. Under the Exposure Triangle is of paramount importance in film because unlike digital you cannot review the image on a screen at the back of the camera and then make adjustments. Film also loves light and has a high propensity to retain highlight detail, thus why we expose for the shadows and not the highlights. The worst thing you can do with film is under-expose it.

Just quickly, as I mentioned, I use the Zone System for metering film, principally B&W film. What is the Zone System?

”The Zone System assigns numbers from 0 through 10 to different brightness values, with 0 representing black, 5 middle gray, and 10 pure white; these values are known as zones. To make zones easily distinguishable from other quantities, Adams and Archer used Roman rather than Arabic numerals.”

Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zone_System

My process, I meter off the darkest spot in the image and determine where I want that to fall on the 0-10 scale. I typically like my shadows to be darker instead of mid-gray, which is where the meter places them. So if my meter tells me that the Exposure Value for the shadow is 8 for Zone 5 I will likely place the shadows in Zone 3. This will give me shadows with some detail. All of this is dependent on the overall scene and the difference in Exposure Value between the shadows and the highlights. Ultimately though, it is an artistic decision based on your own preferences.

I will write addition posts about my film photography work.

Thank you again for taking the time to read.


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