What Constitutes a Strong Image - My View

So, what do I BELIEVE are the components that make a good or great image?

This will be relatively short as I see this as an introduction of this topic, from my perspective.

1) First and foremost the viewer of the image should not have to guess what the subject of the image is. The eye of the viewer should go straight to the subject or be led, uninterrupted to the subject, very quickly.

2) The image should provide “balance” for the eye. To me this means that the composition of the image should feel natural to the eye, unless the goal is abstract.

3) There should be contrast between the subject and the other elements of the image. This does not mean that it needs to be a high contrast image but there should be a difference colour, lighting, toning, etc. between the subject and the other elements of the image so the subject stands out. This is very similar to No. 1.

4) The use of Lead In (Leading) Lines. This is when there is a distinct “line” within the image that leads the viewer’s eye through the image to a specific element in the image. The most obvious one would be using railroad tracks leading to a train, there is no doubt where the tracks are leading. This creates intrigue andn the eye wants to follow these lines to “see” where they lead.

How to meet these components:

• Use of aperture to “isolate” the subject. A larger aperture will have the subject in focus with other, less important elements, out of focus……..this is Bokeh

• Use of the Rule of Thirds. Divide the focus screen, either mentally or by turning on the grid within the viewfinder, and place the subject within one of the thirds. Many will say the subject should not be placed directly in the middle third, but there are occasions where it is effective to place the subject in the middle, for example, when capturing a portrait in portrait orientation most of the subject will likely be in the middle but the characteristics, the eyes, may be “off-centre”. For landscape images where there is a clear horizon I would say determine which area of the scene shall carry the most weight, the sky or the ground. This determination can made based on where the most interesting elements are. For example, if you are wanting to portray dark storm clouds then it would be appropriate to give the clouds the most weight. If you are wanting to show the lights of a city you will minimise the sky.

• With regard to contrast, make certain your subject does not blend into the background by being the same colour thus “getting lost” in the background.

• Use something within the image that will causes the viewer’s eyes to be directed through the frame to a specific location of element.

I have added a few images of mine that I believe are strong images and meet the parameters mentioned.

In the first image of the swimmer, I have placed him (key element is his goggles/eyes) in the upper left third and have left enough negative space, camera right, to allow for him to swim into.

In the second image I have used the Rule of Thirds in two ways, clearly the sky has more interesting elements than the water so I have given the sky more prominance. The use of the Coconut Tree, right third, has given a place of reference and works with the water to say, “Welcome to the Tropics, come on in”

In the third image the subject is very, very clear, it is the observation tower and the horizon leads the eye to the subject. I have also used the Rule of Thirds again and there is “contrast” between the subject and the background.

In the fourth images, again I have used the Rule of Thirds but more pronounced is the use of the rocks as a Lead In Line. The rocks start in the lower left third and lead the eye into and through the image to the sailboat, giving the feel of this is where you go to unwind and relax.

The final image is essentially a portrait of a Flamingo and while the bird is relatively centered its head sits in the upper left third creating balance in the image. I have used a large Aperture, the smaller the number, the larger the Aperture and greater the background will be out of focus. Note that the key focus is on the eyes of the Flaming, that is because whenever you take a photo of something with eyes, a person or an animal the eyes must be the focal point.

Why I decided to Teach Photography

For nearly as long as I have known myself I have had a fascination with pictures.

As I got older this fascination grew and became a passion. When I first learned photography, most professional photographers were unwilling to teach someone who could potentially become their competitor, so pretty much learned on my own, through trial and error and experimentation. After “practicing” this wonderful art form for nearly 40 years I have garnered a whole lot of knowledge and what good is knowledge if you don’t share it?

I never viewed photography as overly difficult but there are some technical aspects that one must learn in order to capture the beginnings of a quality image.

While each element of photography works in unison to create a great image when first learning photography there are steps one can take to begin to create good images. The first, in my view, after learning how to properly hold/stabilise the camera, is Composition. An image with good composition can be an effective image even if the exposure is marginally off.

Second is proper exposure. After Composition, Exposure, in my view, is the basis of good photography. So while an image with good Composition with Exposure being slightly off can make for a good image, if Exposure is such that everything is way over or under-exposed the image is unusable.

The third element is focus. This is in reference to both focus itself and focal point. Focus is making sure the image is not blurry and focal is directing the viewer’s eyes where you want them to go.

Let’s Address Exposure First

Exposure is a matter of balancing the three elements of the Exposure Triangle (shutter speed, aperture and ISO) . The easiest way I have found to teach this concept is to break it down by determining two of the elements and use the third to get correct exposure.

What do I mean? For example, make sure your camera is in Manual Mode, set your ISO to say 400, now determine if you want everything in focus or only items closest to the camera with items furthest from the camera blurred (this is an artistic decision). Let’s choose a relatively large aperture, say f5.6. Now select a subject, look through the view finder of the camera and read the meter, if it is to the left or right of centre the image is over or under exposed. The goal is to “zero-out” your meter, that is, place the marker in the centre of the meter scale, to do this you only need to increase or decrease the shutter speed to get the meter marking to the centre.

Once you have done this you have effectively used the Exposure Triangle to correctly expose an image.

You can use this method by “fixing” any two of the three and using the third to zero out your meter.

See how easy it actually is? After a while much of it will become second nature, you will make decisions before you ever put the camera to your eye. Typically, if you are shooting during the day there will be little need to change your ISO unless lighting conditions are changing rapidly, unlikely to happen. So you can “fix” your ISO. You then decide on your depth of focus, Aperture, you fix that, the only thing left is shutter speed and you use that to correct your exposure.

You may decide to “fix” the shutter speed, you may want to create blur in your image, you will set a slow shutter speed, you can again leave your ISO at 400 and set your exposure using your Aperture.

So you see, this proper exposure thing is easy, once you have a basic understanding…….anyone can do it.

Remember that photography is nothing more than the capture of light, the light falling on or the light being reflected from your subject. All you need to do is properly expose for that light.

Since, I stated that I believe that Composition is more important, overall than exposure, I say that because automatic settings in cameras do a pretty good of setting the right exposure and I believe one should learn Composition first.

Composition is nothing more than attracting and keeping the attention of the viewer, at least long enough to truly experience what you have captured.

Without going into too much detail, couple of key Compositional Elements, are:

Rule of Thirds - think of thirds as splitting your view finder into three equal rows and three equal columns……..simply, in your initial learning, never place you subject in the smack dab middle of the frame, that makes for a boring and predictable image, on most occasions. Place the subject in the left third or the right third of the screen. This creates negative space and gives the eye somewhere to go.

When shooting a landscape image where there is the presence of the horizon, never place the horizon in the middle of the frame, again this typically creates a boring and mundane image, place the horizon in the upper of lower third of the frame. This again gives the eye somewhere to wonder across and through the image. If you are shooting a Sunset, put the horizon in the lower third because you want the viewer to focus more on the beauty of the Sunset. If you are shooting a beach scene, for example, your goal is likely to show the beauty of the beach so you would place the horizon higher in the blue sky to have the viewer focus more attention on the beach and its details.

Lead In Lines - this is taking elements that are essentially straight lines, placing them in the frame as if they are pointing the viewer into the scene of toward your ultimate subject, an example would be, there is a line of rocks in the sea that lead to a sailboat in the distance. You would frame the image so that the line do indeed point directly at the sail boat. These line lead the viewer’s eyes into the scene.

I trust this has been of some assistance.