A Discussion on Photography

One of the things I love most about teaching photography and passing on knowledge I have gained over these past 40+ years of practicing this art form is watching the reaction of students when they realise how easy taking full control, shooting in Manual Mode, of their camera is.

I am not saying that shooting in manual mode necessarily makes one a better photographer, it simply means being able to fully control the tool in you hands as you wish to control it.

So, what am I getting at?

I watch and follow a large number of photographers and I can say this, as a teacher, I can show you how to operate the equipment, but I cannot teach you the “art” of photography. Achieving proper exposure is the technical side of photography whereas seeing an image and the capture of an image is the “art”.

Let’s have a frank discussion:

Learning how the points of the Exposure Triangle all work together to achieve proper exposure is easy to teach, I have been able to teach that in a matter of minutes to students who had only ever shot in Auto or one of the Auto-Exposure modes on their cameras. This to me is the ground level of photography and everyone with a desire for photography should learn this as an absolute foundation.

The “art” of photography, however, is completely different. I can teach the basis of “compositional rules”, such as the Rule of Thirds, Lead In Lines, Symmetry, etc. but what I cannot teach is how one designs a photoshoot, whether this photoshoot is a Portrait or Fashion shoot, a Product shoot, or a Landscape shoot, that is for the individual eye to see. For example, when I go out with a group of fellow photographers to a location to capture some landscape images, even though we are all shooting from a very similar location, each of us creates a different and unique image because we each see the scene differently and we each determine what the most important element of the scene is to our eye. That is the individual eye and what feels best to each photographer. The same applies when shooting a model in studio, a group of photographers shooting the same model will create different results when given the freedom to set their own lighting and posing. Neither is right, nor wrong because art is subjective.

Here is where some many take some exception to my comments:

The issue I have with much of the people work (portraits, fashion, weddings, etc.) I see today is that the “art” is not necessarily being created by the photographer using the camera, it is being created through image editing software, such that the “final” work looks nothing like what was created by using the camera. The work created by the camera has now become the canvas on which the art is created. This is leading to, in many instances, the work being indistinguishable between photographers. Much of the lighting that creates the initial piece is the same and the way the images are edited is the same, so photographers, to a large degree, do not stand out from each other.

To me, a good photographer creates a technically sound image, properly exposed, properly lit and appropriate posing BUT a great photographer presents an image that is artistically appealing and is able to hold the attention of the viewer beyond just seeing a nicely exposed image. This goes beyond the technical abilities of the photographer, remember I said above that the technical side can be taught and “perfected”. Take a photojournalist, some of the best photojournalistic images may not be the best exposed images but they are captured in a manner that draws the viewer in and hold holds the viewer’s attention, there is an emotion evoked. Again, this is where the “art” that resides in the photographer is on display.

What I am finding is many are chasing the next best thing in photography equipment but does that equipment truly matter in the overall premise of photography, that is to create art. Camera and lens manufacturers are progressing the quality of images produced, that is the way the images are rendered, very sharp, very clean, nearly high-definition images. This advancement, to be very honest, is not of interest to me because coming from an analog (film) background that began over 40 years ago, for me the quality of an image is not in its rendering but in its content.

I do, indeed shoot digital but I have refused to chase technology. My digital cameras are:

Nikon D3s - First produced in 2009 and was discontinued is 2012 when it was replaced with the D4. This is my go to sports photography camera and it is has excellent high ISO performance.

Nikon D3x - First produced in 2008 as a high mega-pixel (24.4mp) for studio, landscape, weddings, etc. It is not a high ISO camera and it is not designed to be a sport photography camera.

Nikon D500 - First produced in 2016. This is a very versatile camera with a high fps and very good high ISO performance. I purchased it more as a travel camera as it is much smaller and lighter than the D3s and the D3x.

So, as you can see, I am quite a few generations behind, but I do not see the need to keep “upgrading” camera bodies. I still believe lens quality is more important.

That being said, if given the choice I would much rather shoot one of my film cameras, my current favourite is the Pentax 6x7.

Film, for me is still what photography is all about, others many differ and that is absolutely fine because as artist we have personal choice over our tools.

Why film?

I have addressed this before and I mentioned it above, for me a quality image is not about how it is rendered but it is the feeling of the image. I simply feel that because film images are not over crisp and clear (sharpness) and have a softer rendering created by the film grain, the images have much more character and life to them than do images being produced today with the high megapixel cameras. For me there is just something about the hands-on nature of shooting film……..with only 10 frames per roll I tend to be much more selective in what I shoot, I am more in-tuned with what I want to produce, not thinking about where I can take the image in edits. Film is about truly taking images one frame at a time, checking and re-checking composition, checking and re-checking exposure by using a spot meter to meter around the scene, determining where I want my shadows to fall in the overall exposure and not pressing the shutter button until I am absolutely certain I have my composition and exposure as I want it.

I know many disagree and I am fine with that…….I still believe that new photographers can benefit by starting the photography process in shooting film, developing is another story. Yes, a digital camera can be a great learning and one can learn very fast on digital, I just think that film teaches the elements of proper exposure and composition a little less forgivingly, resulting in a faster learning curve. Let me explain, with digital cameras the photographer can capture the same image over and over again, nearly an unlimited number of times and adjust the exposure and composition continually and ultimately the photog can get “lucky” but has the photog truly learned in this process? With film, the decision about composition is key, as is the exposure and where the exposure readings are taken from. With film, the photog has to “know” that he has gotten everything right as there is no immediate feedback to make the adjustments. This is where wonderful lessons in photography are on offer.

In closing……it is not my intent to knock those continuing to take advantage of technological advancements in digital photography because if this means these advancements bring more people into the wonderful art form that is a great thing. I would simply advise new(er) photographers to “focus” less emphasis on the rendering of the image and more time on developing his/her photographer’s eye and learn to create images that stand out from the crowd. It is great to follow other photographers but I feel standing out by creating your own style is the better way to go.

I am always open to having these discussions.

What Constitutes a Strong Image - My View

So, what do I BELIEVE are the components that make a good or great image?

This will be relatively short as I see this as an introduction of this topic, from my perspective.

1) First and foremost the viewer of the image should not have to guess what the subject of the image is. The eye of the viewer should go straight to the subject or be led, uninterrupted to the subject, very quickly.

2) The image should provide “balance” for the eye. To me this means that the composition of the image should feel natural to the eye, unless the goal is abstract.

3) There should be contrast between the subject and the other elements of the image. This does not mean that it needs to be a high contrast image but there should be a difference colour, lighting, toning, etc. between the subject and the other elements of the image so the subject stands out. This is very similar to No. 1.

4) The use of Lead In (Leading) Lines. This is when there is a distinct “line” within the image that leads the viewer’s eye through the image to a specific element in the image. The most obvious one would be using railroad tracks leading to a train, there is no doubt where the tracks are leading. This creates intrigue andn the eye wants to follow these lines to “see” where they lead.

How to meet these components:

• Use of aperture to “isolate” the subject. A larger aperture will have the subject in focus with other, less important elements, out of focus……..this is Bokeh

• Use of the Rule of Thirds. Divide the focus screen, either mentally or by turning on the grid within the viewfinder, and place the subject within one of the thirds. Many will say the subject should not be placed directly in the middle third, but there are occasions where it is effective to place the subject in the middle, for example, when capturing a portrait in portrait orientation most of the subject will likely be in the middle but the characteristics, the eyes, may be “off-centre”. For landscape images where there is a clear horizon I would say determine which area of the scene shall carry the most weight, the sky or the ground. This determination can made based on where the most interesting elements are. For example, if you are wanting to portray dark storm clouds then it would be appropriate to give the clouds the most weight. If you are wanting to show the lights of a city you will minimise the sky.

• With regard to contrast, make certain your subject does not blend into the background by being the same colour thus “getting lost” in the background.

• Use something within the image that will causes the viewer’s eyes to be directed through the frame to a specific location of element.

I have added a few images of mine that I believe are strong images and meet the parameters mentioned.

In the first image of the swimmer, I have placed him (key element is his goggles/eyes) in the upper left third and have left enough negative space, camera right, to allow for him to swim into.

In the second image I have used the Rule of Thirds in two ways, clearly the sky has more interesting elements than the water so I have given the sky more prominance. The use of the Coconut Tree, right third, has given a place of reference and works with the water to say, “Welcome to the Tropics, come on in”

In the third image the subject is very, very clear, it is the observation tower and the horizon leads the eye to the subject. I have also used the Rule of Thirds again and there is “contrast” between the subject and the background.

In the fourth images, again I have used the Rule of Thirds but more pronounced is the use of the rocks as a Lead In Line. The rocks start in the lower left third and lead the eye into and through the image to the sailboat, giving the feel of this is where you go to unwind and relax.

The final image is essentially a portrait of a Flamingo and while the bird is relatively centered its head sits in the upper left third creating balance in the image. I have used a large Aperture, the smaller the number, the larger the Aperture and greater the background will be out of focus. Note that the key focus is on the eyes of the Flaming, that is because whenever you take a photo of something with eyes, a person or an animal the eyes must be the focal point.

Why I decided to Teach Photography

For nearly as long as I have known myself I have had a fascination with pictures.

As I got older this fascination grew and became a passion. When I first learned photography, most professional photographers were unwilling to teach someone who could potentially become their competitor, so pretty much learned on my own, through trial and error and experimentation. After “practicing” this wonderful art form for nearly 40 years I have garnered a whole lot of knowledge and what good is knowledge if you don’t share it?

I never viewed photography as overly difficult but there are some technical aspects that one must learn in order to capture the beginnings of a quality image.

While each element of photography works in unison to create a great image when first learning photography there are steps one can take to begin to create good images. The first, in my view, after learning how to properly hold/stabilise the camera, is Composition. An image with good composition can be an effective image even if the exposure is marginally off.

Second is proper exposure. After Composition, Exposure, in my view, is the basis of good photography. So while an image with good Composition with Exposure being slightly off can make for a good image, if Exposure is such that everything is way over or under-exposed the image is unusable.

The third element is focus. This is in reference to both focus itself and focal point. Focus is making sure the image is not blurry and focal is directing the viewer’s eyes where you want them to go.

Let’s Address Exposure First

Exposure is a matter of balancing the three elements of the Exposure Triangle (shutter speed, aperture and ISO) . The easiest way I have found to teach this concept is to break it down by determining two of the elements and use the third to get correct exposure.

What do I mean? For example, make sure your camera is in Manual Mode, set your ISO to say 400, now determine if you want everything in focus or only items closest to the camera with items furthest from the camera blurred (this is an artistic decision). Let’s choose a relatively large aperture, say f5.6. Now select a subject, look through the view finder of the camera and read the meter, if it is to the left or right of centre the image is over or under exposed. The goal is to “zero-out” your meter, that is, place the marker in the centre of the meter scale, to do this you only need to increase or decrease the shutter speed to get the meter marking to the centre.

Once you have done this you have effectively used the Exposure Triangle to correctly expose an image.

You can use this method by “fixing” any two of the three and using the third to zero out your meter.

See how easy it actually is? After a while much of it will become second nature, you will make decisions before you ever put the camera to your eye. Typically, if you are shooting during the day there will be little need to change your ISO unless lighting conditions are changing rapidly, unlikely to happen. So you can “fix” your ISO. You then decide on your depth of focus, Aperture, you fix that, the only thing left is shutter speed and you use that to correct your exposure.

You may decide to “fix” the shutter speed, you may want to create blur in your image, you will set a slow shutter speed, you can again leave your ISO at 400 and set your exposure using your Aperture.

So you see, this proper exposure thing is easy, once you have a basic understanding…….anyone can do it.

Remember that photography is nothing more than the capture of light, the light falling on or the light being reflected from your subject. All you need to do is properly expose for that light.

Since, I stated that I believe that Composition is more important, overall than exposure, I say that because automatic settings in cameras do a pretty good of setting the right exposure and I believe one should learn Composition first.

Composition is nothing more than attracting and keeping the attention of the viewer, at least long enough to truly experience what you have captured.

Without going into too much detail, couple of key Compositional Elements, are:

Rule of Thirds - think of thirds as splitting your view finder into three equal rows and three equal columns……..simply, in your initial learning, never place you subject in the smack dab middle of the frame, that makes for a boring and predictable image, on most occasions. Place the subject in the left third or the right third of the screen. This creates negative space and gives the eye somewhere to go.

When shooting a landscape image where there is the presence of the horizon, never place the horizon in the middle of the frame, again this typically creates a boring and mundane image, place the horizon in the upper of lower third of the frame. This again gives the eye somewhere to wonder across and through the image. If you are shooting a Sunset, put the horizon in the lower third because you want the viewer to focus more on the beauty of the Sunset. If you are shooting a beach scene, for example, your goal is likely to show the beauty of the beach so you would place the horizon higher in the blue sky to have the viewer focus more attention on the beach and its details.

Lead In Lines - this is taking elements that are essentially straight lines, placing them in the frame as if they are pointing the viewer into the scene of toward your ultimate subject, an example would be, there is a line of rocks in the sea that lead to a sailboat in the distance. You would frame the image so that the line do indeed point directly at the sail boat. These line lead the viewer’s eyes into the scene.

I trust this has been of some assistance.

My First Ever Blog Post

I know this is long overdue and it is something I had planned to start quite some time ago……….as with many things, other things come up to distract one’s attention.

Who Am I?

I am Guilden Gilbert, a photographer born and raised in Bermuda and I have been living in the Bahamas since 1997.

Photography has always appealed to me, I say always because while I truly delved into this art form back in 1980 or 81 as a 14 or 15 year old my Mom tells me that I was always fascinated with cameras and with taking pictures.

My first “real” foray into photography came about while I was participating in the Duke of Edinburgh Awards in high school in Bermuda. We were asked to select a hobby, I chose photography where we shot, developed and wet printed B&W film images . It was this experience that set me on the path to this journey into photography where, nearly 40 years later I am just as passionate about it.

My very first “real” camera was a Canon AE-1 and ran so, so many rolls of film through that camera. I got this camera just after completing the hobby series during the Awards and I used it until it was stolen in 1999. When I first started out I would shoot between 8 and 10 rolls of film a week and my parents covered the cost of the film development.

I taught myself photography because back then many professional photographers were not prepared to take the time to teach someone the art form. I learned through trial and error, thus the large number of rolls of film each week. Without knowing it at the time my trial and error taught me the Exposure Triangle. I would make notes of my settlngs for each frame so that when I received the prints back I would know the setting for each image and I learned what worked and didn’t work under various lighting conditions. I also experimented with various ASA (ISO) film stocks and learned how to rewind a partially exposed roll so that I could change the ISO and then go back and finish the incomplete roll.

After my AE-1 was stolen I took a break from photography because I saw the technology changing rapidly. When I did jump back into photography I realised my mindset with shooting had to change slightly. With film I learned to expose for the shadows but with digital I had to adjust and expose for the highlights to avoid blowing out pixels making them un-retrievable.

I consider myself fortunate to have been born in the most beautiful place on Earth, Bermuda and today residing in the second most beautiful place on Earth, the Bahamas……..:-).

As you will see from my images my work consists of a number of genres, Landscapes (Seascapes), some Portraits and quite a bit of Sports.

I have been under contract with the Bermuda Football Association to shoot a World Cup Qualifier between Bermuda and the Bahamas. I have been under contract to shoot the IAAF World Relays, the CARIFTA Games, FIFA Beach Soccer World Cup Qualifiers. I have been honoured to have been featured as a Sports Photographer in N Photo Magazine, had a number of my images selected for exhibitions by BlankWall Gallery in Athens, Greece, I have received Honourable Mention in some very large global photo contests and I am proud to have my work hanging in homes and offices in many places around the Globe.

In the past few years I have taken the step to teach photography so that I can pass on the wealth of knowledge I have gained in this art form. I happy to see some of my former students truly beginning to excel in this craft.

So that is me in a nutshell. Hopefully I can be consistent in writing new posts. i welcome feedback.

This is me………